Friday, December 30, 2016

Enlightened serendipity


By Arnie Weissmann
If you want to feel enlightened, go to Sri Lanka.

But first, prepare to be humbled.

Sri Lanka simultaneously exalts and surprises, its attractions often so stunning one can't believe they're not better known: Outstanding ruins on a grand scale. A cultural blend that exists nowhere else on Earth. Artistic traditions that not only produce dreamy and mystical imagery but incredible modern architecture.

Perhaps for Americans, some lack of familiarity with Sri Lanka's offerings will soon dissipate. Europeans and Australians embraced the country soon after its 25-year civil war ended in 2009, and together those source markets account for almost 45% of all arrivals.

Americans represented less than 5% of the arrival total in 2015, but that's a 16% rise over the previous year. Sri Lanka in 2016 appeals to American early adopters, those in the first waves of travelers who reached Myanmar, Vietnam and Bhutan when those countries opened up.

But there is a difference: Pioneering Americans who traveled to those destinations in their early stages often found only standard accommodations at best; in Sri Lanka they'll find upscale hospitality companies, including luxury brands such as Aman, Taj and Anantara, as well as inspired homegrown resorts and hotels.

For the time being at least, they're also likely to find they're the only Americans in residence at some of those properties. And that may be the case for some time to come; the biggest barrier preventing Sri Lanka from growing its American arrivals significantly is distance, and that isn't going to change. There are no scheduled nonstop flights between North America and Colombo, its capital and largest city.

In fact, many Americans going there now were already in the neighborhood, tacking Sri Lanka onto a trip to India.

The good news for those who combine these two destinations is that as wonderful as India can be, Sri Lanka won't suffer in comparison. There are some similarities beyond a shared love of curry, cricket and kites, but the country is much smaller and less densely populated than India, and it has an identity and culture that are strikingly distinct.

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